In exceptionally simple terms, there are three general strategies used. You want to be agile enough to hop between techniques almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to achieve, to block in your competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the game. You can create the wall anyplace within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match continues.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. For example, if your challenger tosses an early two and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you can play 6/1 6/1 eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is now in serious difficulty considering that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a point consisting of at least two of your pieces.) It must be used when you are extremely behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The best locations for anchors are towards your competitor’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is important for an effective backgame: besides, there is no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break down this right away, while your opponent is moving their checkers home, considering that you don’t have other additional checkers to move! In this case, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up till your competitor gives you a chance to hit, so it will be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your competitor to hit them in this case!
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