In extraordinarily simple terms, there are 3 main plans used. You want to be agile enough to switch techniques almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you might manage, to lock in your opponent’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most suitable strategy at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game advances.

The Blitz

This is comprised of locking your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. i.e., if your challenger tosses an early 2 and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then toss a five-five, you can play six/one six/one 8/3 eight/three. Your opponent is now in serious calamity due to the fact that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!

The Backgame

This strategy is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor is a position consisting of at least 2 of your checkers.) It should be played when you are extremely behind as this action greatly improves your chances. The best areas for anchor spots are near your opponent’s lower points and also on adjoining points or with a single point in between. Timing is crucial for a competent backgame: after all, there is no reason having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break down this right away, while your competitor is shifting their checkers home, seeing that you don’t have other extra pieces to shift! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position until your competitor gives you a chance to hit, so it can be a good idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this case!