[ English ]

In astonishingly simple terms, there are three general techniques used. You must be agile enough to hop between tactics instantly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you can manage, to block in the opponent’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable course of action at the start of the match. You can build the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game continues.

The Blitz

This consists of locking your home board as fast as possible while keeping your challenger on the bar. For example, if your challenger rolls an early two and moves one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you will be able to play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opponent is then in serious difficulty taking into account that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have two or higher pieces in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor is a point consisting of at least two of your checkers.) It would be employed when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The best places for anchors are near your opponent’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is important for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break apart this straight away, while your opponent is getting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have other spare checkers to move! In this case, it is more favorable to have checkers on the bar so that you might preserve your position up until your opponent provides you a chance to hit, so it can be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this case!